2002: An Imperial Odyssey

by Kenyon Wills

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  1. First Sanding Sand the remaining paint to feather the edges of the paint and bare metal so that there is a smooth transition between the two, removing any and all traces of surface rust from scratches in the process. A scratch that you can see on the surface will normally have little veins of rust spreading out from it under the paint, so all spots that flake apart under the sander are then sanded out to expose bare metal all around and to uncover any rust that's under the factory sealer. I do leave the patches of paint that is unblemished, as I trust the original factory seal on the metal more than I trust my own prep work and figure that having lasted 40 years already is good enough for me. I'll smooth out the transitions when I spray the consecutive coats of Rust Encapsulator and sandable primer. The rust killer goes on thick and coarse and acts as a good filler when sanded. Several coats of primer will be sanded and smooth out the surface further. The bare metal still has rust in its fabric, and I don't ever want to see the rust again, so I put SEM rust-seal onto the bare metal. It turns all rust black or deep purple, neutralizing it. The Rust Encapsulator goes on top of that as a rust seal/killer. I would prefer to be safe due to the high amount of surface rust that is present on the shell from Marin. The SEM turns a golden color and looks like it did something to the rust. Hope it works out!
    Driver's Side with SEM Rust Sealer Mark Boheme Demonstrating a Long-Board Sander
    Front Fender with SEM Rust Sealer Michael Ulander Working on Rear Quarter Panel

  2. There are a few dents that need pulling with the slide hammer and have old Bondo body filler that was put in as filler removed. The surface was not stabilized first, and the rust has lifted the Bondo off. I will kill ALL rust first, coat the surface, and then apply any filler as needed. Michael Ulander and Mark Boheme came over one day during the early stages for a quickie intro to the various tools used for sanding and working the body.

    Note the Imperial Roses in the foreground?
    Michael Ulander Sanding More Rust! Rear Quarter Body Creases

    Orbital Air Sander The air tools used are the Orbital Sander, which is the round one. The board sander is the long straight red one, and the jitter-bug is the more compact squared one. All three operate on the same principal, in that they vibrate an abrasive against the body panel. The Orbital is the most commonly seen sander at many body shops, and takes adhesive sandpaper discs Longboard & Jitterbug sanders that are a peel and stick affair. The other two have spring-loaded clamps that you slip a standard piece of sandpaper into. I use 80-grit discs on the orbital and then finer grits with the other two. The board sander is the one that I use to flatten out body filler on flat panels, and each has its own use. I bought cheapies on Ebay and feel like I more than got my money out of them. They're relatively simple and not prone to failure as far as I can see.

    Rust Under the Roof Panel

  3. Use a wire wheel on a grinder on the frame and the interior (roof) to remove rust.

    The rust in the foreground is what was there. The cleaner area is cleaner than it looks and is really smooth. The red is Rust Encapsulator, formerly called Corroless and found at eastwood.com

  4. Spray Corroless* Rust Encapsulator onto the bare metal that has had rust on it at any time. I sprayed outside and learned a lesson. When I stood back and let the paint gun go full blast, Siphon-fed Spray Gun the over spray balled into little droplets that then coagulated and landed on the body. I did too much too fast, and when I went back later the body felt like it was texturized. I brushed it with a soft household broom, and 50% of the paint came off! I subsequently sprayed the bare frame in the engine compartment, and was more sparing with the trigger of the paint gun and used a lower pressure - about 50PSI. Using less trigger at closer range with lower air pressure yielded the correct coverage and I was amazed at how much control the paint gun has. I will never use a can of spray paint again if I can avoid it!! I should mention that this is the first time that I have sprayed using compressed air, so this is a learning process.

SEM Rust-Seal (3930) Creates a hard, protective layer          Formally called 'Corroless', Rust Encapsulator is available from Eastwood Company Spraying Corroless
Car in Corroless Car in Corroless
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This page was last updated 7 February, 2004.  Send us your feedback, and come join the Imperial Mailing List - Online Car Club