Imperial Homepage -> Repair -> Fuel -> Gas Tank Repair
Warning from Kenyon:
A note on the Gas Tank thread. If you are new to "doing" cars, please keep in mind that a drained/empty gas tank still has residual gasoline and attendant fumes. Your radiator shop will "de-fume" it before anything else. Prior to defuming, the gas tank has the potential to become and internal combustion device, more so when empty, so PLEASE treat it nicely and seal it up once you open it. Secondly, please remember that gasoline fumes are prone to settle to the bottom foot of the air in a poorly ventilated garage. If your water heater or house heater are there and have pilot lights, it can creep over and turn the garage into an internal combustion device. I got turned down on a rental house based on the fact that I arrived in an Imperial, and some joker with a Porsche had exploded another one of the land lord's properties while working in the garage with the door down. Made me decide to learn the easy way on that one... Please watch out on gas fumes in the garage!
Addition from Daniel:
This can't be stressed enough; I think we all have the mentality that "it could never happen to me." A very good friend of mine was overhauling his Ford and was using gas to clean some parts. It began to rain so he closed the garage door and continued to work on the motor. The fumes settled to the floor and about an hour later his hot water heater kicked on. He told me he still remembers seeing the wall of fire rushing toward him and the terrible feeling of being burned. He managed to finally get the garage door open (the explosion had jammed the door) but not before being burned so severely that he spent the next six months in a burn unit and has had reconstructive surgery more times than I can count. He has no nose, lips or ears, and several of his fingers had to be amputated. If he had not had the thought to keep his eyes shut he would also be blind. His stories about having to go through the scrubbings each day in the burn unit are horrifying. He told me the same thing after it was all over, "I never thought it could happen to me."
Question from Charlie:
Has anyone had experience with Eastwood's 3 part gas tank sealer kit? My '38's gas tank needs to be restored it has no leaks, the outside is painted black and looks good but the inside is rust coated.they have a kit that treats the rust with "oxy solve" and then seals it with a sealer leaving a white coating inside the tank.Any recommendations pro con or otherwise would be appreciated.
Replies:
From Kent:
I used it twice with no problems, and it does work. Just carefully follow the instruction with the kit.
From Bill:
Those kits do work. While I did not do it, a local radiator shop used one the salvaged tank we bought (from Doc Mopar) for our '64. They had all the equipment, time, and experience to do it right. I think it cost us about $80 and was ready in a week at most.
Question from Jay:
I am now looking for tips and leads on tank sealant. What are the good ones? Easiest to use? What should I expect to pay and how much should I get? Has anybody had any experiences with tank sealants?
Replies:
From Tony:
Bill Hirsch's gas-tank sealer. It's what I used, and it is GREAT. Do NOT wear nice shoes & clothes while applying it - It's utterly white and utterly permanent. Strongly recommended - Totally impervious and inert when it's dry, and it seals and protects like a champ!
From George:
I'll vote for Hirsch's mix....and Tony is very correct when he says once it is dry, it is there to stay....another hint: make sure the 'pick-up tube' is facing the correct direction and tilt the tank away from it very slightly....that and if you can "blow" some compressed air down the tube after 1/2 of the time it says that it will "set-up" you can avoid finding out (as I did with a new MGB tank) how "permanent" this stuff really is!
From Dick:
I have used a product referred to simply as "sloshing compound" from any airport that has a maintenance facility, or more directly, from the source which is "Aircraft Spruce and Specialty" company, which is in Fullerton Ca. Unfortunately, this stuff (and be sure to specify alcohol resistant, they have both) is considered hazardous material, so it is very expensive to ship. Cheap to buy, a gallon will last you all your life, but expensive to ship. So you can either get it at your local airport or drive to Fullerton. It is about 1/4 the cost of Bill Hirsch's, and I am quite sure its the same stuff, and its the best solution to your problem, as it will trap and retain any left over debris along with sealing the leaks.
Question from Eric:
I am considering having the gas tank repaired with the "Gas Tank RE-NU" process. I believe the inside is coated with some type of epoxy. Again, any thoughts or ideas about this type of repair or other options?
Replies:
From Jack:
I had my gas tank done by the Gas Tank RE-NU process. I had lots of rust and a few holes. It is great. Just like having a poly tank when they are done. The guys in Greensburg, PA did mine in less than a week. They also did the neck and cleaned and coated the straps.
From Chuck:
Here's the scoop- the "RENU" tank process is done by the radiator shop in the area. The cost was about $110.00 and included removal, cleaning, coating and oven baking and reinstallation. Upon request, they even kept the car indoors every night. The process took about 3 days but was well worth it, especially since the strap bolts refused to come off. You may want to check your local yellow pages for a radiator shop that advertises the "RENU" gas tank sealer process. Now for the 1-2 eagle do it yourself plan-depends upon how difficult those strap bolts or nuts are rusted on-here it is- In Hemmings motor news is a long term vendor with a great track record- Bill Hirsch. He supplies a gas tank sealer that does what the "RENU" process does but much cheaper. The cost is $17.95 plus $5.00 for shipping. The quart will do up to a 30 gallon tank. Call 1-800-828-2061 or www.hirschauto.com. If my memory serves me correctly, my dad and I used this product about 20 years ago on a 36 Desoto with the same problems as the Ford Galaxy I mentioned earlier. It solved the problem immediately and NO MORE plugged fuel filters.
From Mike:
I used the Hirsch product about 10 years ago in my 29 Packard. Afterward I kept having a recurring problem like I was running out of gas. I put an electric fuel pump on and thought that was the answer and end of my problem. Wrong. We finally figured out that the sealer somehow got stringy and would once and awhile get sucked up into the fuel line. After shut down it would come back out and the car would run until the same sequence repeated itself. At that point I had to take the tank to a stripper who had large tanks to accommodate the fuel tank to flush it out. And I DID follow the directions for the product to the tee. My suggestion would be--Go with the Renu.
Question from Bob:
Can someone tell me the best way to clean out a gas tank that has been sitting for a few years and has a lot of crud built up on the inside?
Replies:
From Jeff:
I have done gas tanks that were full of gunk 2 ways. On my 73 Satellite, I bought the kit from Eastwood (www.eastwoodco.com) and it was around $40 for the cleaner and sealer. Took about 5 hrs to do. I also took the tank from my 59 to a local radiator shop and it was around $100 for them to boil it out to clean it well and then to seal it. Make sure you clean up the sending unit before re-assembly.
From Bill:
Take it to a radiator shop and have them dip & test it. Although you can try all kinds of home remedies and over the counter cleaners, there's nothing more frustrating to reinstall the tank and find out it still is clogged.
From Dick:
Here's my technique for resurrecting a grungy old gas tank.
1. Remove tank, drain it through every possible orifice, and put about 1 gallon of water/detergent mixture in it. Put about 6 to 8 feet of 5/16 chain in the filler pipe. Good to bolt a dozen or so 1 1/2 bolts, 3/8" or 5/16", through some of the links, tighten the bolts by double nutting them so they can rattle around in the chain links but not come loose on you. Then seal all the orifices with duct tape, and pick up the whole assembly and do the Tango. After the Tango, do an Irish Jig, then a Mexican Hat Dance, then the Charleston. Do the dances in exactly this order if you want the ghost of Fred Astaire to help. During this activity, toss your partner, twirl her around, flip her upside down, and jiggle her vigorously. I have found it to be best if I arrange things so that my neighbors, wife and kids cannot see me performing this ritual. Others are not so understanding as old car folks.
2. Now, remove the duct tape from the largest orifice, drain her dry and pull out the chain (ouch!). Flush her mightily with a garden hose (OOOH!). OK, sorry, getting carried away here. You should now be the proud possessor of about 2 pounds of gunk and rust, plus unidentifiable chunks of crud, all over your driveway.
3. Inspect thoroughly for remaining loose material. If necessary, repeat steps 1 and 2.
4. Now, hang it up to dry (you can assist the drying process by putting the vacuum cleaner hose on the blower output and running the hot air through the tank. Let the tank dry for at least 24 hours in the hot San Fernando Valley sun. (Those of you in other parts of the country are out of luck here).
5. While the tank is drying, look up the nearest small airport, drive over there to a maintenance hanger, and tell the man with grease under his nails you want a gallon of "Sloshing Sealer" for fuel tanks. He will have two varieties, you want the more expensive type which resists alcohol containing fuels. If you draw a blank, call "Aircraft Spruce Specialties" in Fullerton, they will ship you some, but its a hassle to have it shipped because the Feds have decided its a hazardous material. It might be cheaper to just drive down there and pick it up. Bill Hirsch in NJ sells the stuff too, but you don't want to buy it at his price.
6. This stuff is magic. You pour it in the tank, seal the tank openings, slosh it all around so as to cover all surfaces, drain it back into the container (you will see you have used about 1/2 a quart), let the tank air dry for 24 hours again, then repeat the whole process.
The tank will never rust again, any small leaks are gone, and you have a permanent cure. I have done 5 of my cars this way, and my Hudson was a real disaster with rusted through pinhole leaks, plus all kinds of crud and guk in the tank. That was 12 years ago, and never had anything come through to the gas filter again since.
The same sloshing sealer will fix your float. Just dip it in and let it dry. Twice is nice.
First, of course, you have to get the gas out of it. I use a hair dryer, holding the float so the leak is down, heat the float with a hair dryer, the expansion of the air inside (ain't physics wonderful) will propel the fluid out. You might have to let it cool down and repeat a couple of times to get it all out.
I sometimes solder the hole trying to seal the floats, both gas gauge and carburetor, but I have had cracks that just seem to travel on me when I get the brass hot enough to solder to. The sloshing sealer works better, even though it does add some weight to the float, it does not seem to be significant.
Question from Rick:
I have a gas tank leak around the tanks fuel gauge sending unit caused by an irregular surface on the tank. Purchased a new gasket, installed it and gas pours out of full tank. Installed it correctly turning it all the way to the stops or whatever they might be called. Is there anything out there to fill the irregularities? It had all been glued with a very hard gray glue that I had to remove to get at it.
Replies:
From John:
I would think that Permatex sealer would work well on this.
From Kenny:
In most auto part stores they have this two part putty, all you have to do is cut a piece off and knead it in your fingers till it is well blended and apply. Make sure your surface is clean, then you can resurface with a fine file. This stuff cures so hard you can machine it. It comes in a plastic tube about as big in diameter as a quarter. I Used it one time on a rear brake caliper of a Harley-Davidson because the thread was stripped. filled the hole drilled and tapped it and it held pressure for 7 years until I sold it.
From Gregg:
Kenny B is right. Peps and other stores sell a gas tank repair kit in the same aisle as all the adhesives. It is cheap only about $10 or so. It comes with a piece of fiberglass cloth, a chalky-rosin type material, and the two part epoxy Kenny mentioned. The epoxy is in a two part plastic bag and the two halves are separated by a plastic clothes-pin type thing. Try to perform this repair with as little gas in the tank as possible. A full tank will put too much pressure on the repair area and it wont last. Just clean the repair area real good with sandpaper and a rag, the area has to be clean or the epoxy will not stick. I would recommend buying a box of latex gloves, this stuff is bad for the skin. Mix the stuff in the bag by kneading it like dough like Kenny says, then cut the bag open and apply the putty. Work fast, it starts catalyzing fast and may get HOT. Another reason to wear those gloves. After a couple of hours it should be cured.
Question from Steve:
Can anyone tell me if POR 15 is resistant to gasoline? I would like to paint the inside of a rusted gas tank with it instead of getting ripped-off at one of those gas tank renew places. Are there any other alternatives? There are some aircraft-tank coatings, but they are not resistant to some of the additives in car gas.
Reply from Steve:
The "POR-15" you are talking about is for painting over rusty metal. POR-15 Inc. makes a gas tank sealer called U.S. Standard. See Hemmings for dealers in your area or mail order suppliers. POR-15 sells a tank kit for about $60 that includes cleaner, etch and the sloshing compound. The sealer dies hard and will not migrate (unlike some gummy sealers from other vendors). Follow the directions that come with the kit. I've used this stuff with great results and no problems -- have clocked almost 6 years on the first tank I did. Be aware that handling an "empty" gas tank is dangerous. The fumes in the tank and a single spark will cause a powerful explosion so you need to know how to safely handle a tank before trying to do it yourself.
Question from Anthony (1959):
Does anyone know where you can get a gas tank float gasket for a 1959 Imperial?
Reply from Kerry:
If Gary Goers doesn't have it I don't know who would but you could make one in about 3 minutes.
Question from Greg (1961):
Can anyone recommend a source for a new gas tank for '61 Imperial?
Replies:
From John:
Good luck. Any from 60-66 will fit Be aware that 60-63 use a non vented cap & 64-66 require a vented cap. This is extremely important.You can tell the early ones by the breather tube around the top of the tank & connects to the filler pipe.Also, make sure you get the filler tube with it, since the older one uses a different seal & don't interchange.
From Marty:
"Gas task Renew" I think is the name of the place that redoes an old gas tank with a new coating. I don't have any more info, but I had my tank done by them a few years ago, great job.
Question from Raffi (1962):
I took my gas tank to a couple of different radiator shops and they all said the same thing: your gas tank is too far gone. A couple of places said I should just buy a new one. But, I was given one alternative, have the "renew" process done, they re-seal it with a fiberglass shell on the inside and outside. It won't be cheap, but, I don't have a lot of time to go looking for a new tank, and, damnit, I'm impatient, so I'm going for it. It will be about three weeks before I get it back. Anyone else out there have experience with the "renew" process? How's it working for you?
Replies:
From Bob:
The POR-15 guys sell a kit to repair gas tank leaks. I believe it consists of the POR-15 paint and patching material. This is probably a better bet than fiberglass. Best bet? Call Lowell Howe or other Imperial parts vendors, get a better tank pronto and have that "re-nued".
From Bill:
Don't forget Dr. Mike Bullock or Lowell Howe. I got an excellent tank for my 65 LeBaron from Mike And Lowell has them too. Mike: 1-408-867-4539 Lowell: 1-209-892-3464 NOW is a good time to call either man.
From Steve:
I had this problem a few years ago with my '64. Go to a wrecking yard and see if you can find a full size Ford product with the gas tank out. The Ford filler neck seal is like our ring but with a sleeve. Put it on my 64 and hasn't leaked a drop in 5 years.
Question from Bruce (1964):
I have purchased a 1964 LeBaron that has sat for a long time , fuel that I put in comes out rust colored, how can I get gas tank cleaned out?? very upset about this the car its self is beautiful inside and out but the fuel problem I think has even got the fuel pump so dirty that it wont pump any fuel through, HELP!!!!
Replies:
From John:
You may have too much rust to drain as another member recently had with their 64. There should be a drain plug on the bottom near the front of the tank, it it removed with a hex-head wrench. You may find though that removing the tank & having it flushed will be the best route.
From Dave:
What sort of condition is the main fuel pipe in? I had a similar problem a few years ago with our 60 , and I replaced it with 5/16 diameter micro-bore copper pipe. Easy to fit and does not kink easy.
From Wayne:
I recently purchased a "NON IMPERIAL" car, not even "MOPAR" that had set up for 15 years. The car ( a Thunderbird, 1970) would run, but the fuel filter would clog, even after adding a second one. So, a friend of mine and I dropped the tank, took it to the local carwash, and flushed it like crazy with soapy water. Then, we rinsed it with gasoline and let it dry. I just returned from a 1700 mile trip, and the second (clear) fuel filter is pristinely clean. The argument will be whether or not to have the tank sealed. I come down on the "don't seal it" side, because of my experience, and because of a friend's experience where sealant became solvent again and clogged carburetor, valves (yes, the ones in the motor), and basically ruined his rebuilt motor. I know that for some tanks (badly rusted, rusted through tanks) it may be necessary, but in that case I would replace the entire tank. I think my tank was pretty bad, and it is still performing very well. After flushing, just keep the tank very full and it' will not develop any new rust, since this is caused by space in the tank.
From Steve:
My experience with my '64 Crown matches Wayne's except I had my fuel tank tanked by a radiator shop, no sealant. Get another tank if leaks are an issue.
From Bill:
Many radiator shops will also "boil" out gas tanks to clean them out and also check for leaks at the same time. If you prefer to do it yourself, I believe Eastwood sells a kit to clean and renew tanks.
Question from Joe (1966):
I need a new tank and hear there are 3 that were offered: one with no vents, another with two vents, and one with 4 vents. My repair guy threw my old one out before we heard this. Anyone know which is right for my car? My car has factory air, if that matters.
Replies:
From Khaos:
POR-15 sells a relining kit that I have been quite happy with. Make sure you get the tank really clean and it works great.
SOmeone will confirm shortly I hope, but all the 'vent' lines should be under the car still, so take a peak. I think just about every one I have had (all in use, sorry) 2 vent lines other than the sending unit. I know the one in my '67 Imperial does.From John:
The '67 is way different then the '66. The '64-'66 have NO vent line if the correct tank is in it. The '60-'63 has one vent line.I'm not sure where the mechanic came up with the multiple vent line thing.
All of the tanks from '60-'66 will interchange. The style without a vent line requires a vented cap, or the tank will collapse.The style with a vent line requires a non vented cap, Otherwise, you way get a dangerous buildup of gas vapors.
Be sure the gas cap is vented.
Question from Greg (1967):
Help! The pickup tube inside my gas tank has become clogged with crud. I would guess that he screen or filter on the end is plugged up tight. I attempted to drop the tank this weekend, but only managed to move one of the strap bolts one half inch in 3 hours. The other one is fused on tight. Any hints as to how to get this tank off? Is it advisable to cut the straps and find replacements.... or should I just keep working on the strap bolts?
Replies:
From John:
If the bolts won't loosen, cut the bolts, not the straps. The bolts are available from Mitchell's & I believe he has them on ebay right now, or you buy directly from him. Last time I bought some, I believe they were $3.00 each
From Ross:
I'd like to recommend one of two products I've used with great success in loosening rusted fasteners: "Kroil" by KANO LABORATORIES, and "SP-100" by PROLONG. I've found the first at supply houses servicing industrial accounts and the second at NAPA. Soak'em overnight. Begin the next day by TIGHTENING them just a few turns and hitting the threads above and below the fastener with a wire brush. Once it seems to begin to move, I'd apply a little chassis grease to the threads so that it'll work its way into the fastener as you loosen it the rest of the way. Don't cut the retaining strap(s) unless rusted through, as they'll clean-up pretty well. I'd make that decision based on whether the strap edges have rusted "inwards" towards the center by one eighth the distance to strap center. I like to use a wire wheel at low rpm to see if the metal isn't all the way gone, but, if need be someone could probably make some new, (I'd try for a SW US salvage yard pair to be sure of fit). (Believe YEAR ONE or other has this peculiar fastener; maybe even MOPAR). As to the pickup being clogged, (replacements for this "sock" filter include the above), I'd try cleaning it as much as possible and experimenting to see if it will work. Otherwise, there are rebuild services I've seen advertised, @$120.00 or so. Also a good idea to have the tank refurbished, as, the system needs attention all-at-one-time, not piecemeal. I would also expect the fuel lines going forward to be a problem, that is to say: there is no way I'd put a refurbished tank/pickup back on without replacing the lines to the fuel pump and carburetor. INLINE TUBE and others keep the patterns available, both in OEM steel and stainless; prebent, with armor and clips as per factory. Replace all soft lines with EFI-rated hose and use stainless steel worm drive clamps; (all available from NAPA). Don't forget the vent line (hard and soft pieces) at the tank forward end. Consider that the fuel pump is also best replaced with an equivalent CARTER piece and I'd give the carburetor a minor overhaul as well (gaskets, passages clean; leave choke well enough alone). I realize that this is an awful lot of advice, but fuel problems are often not easy to diagnose, one tends to think of ignition problems, etc, and it becomes frustratingly confusing. On the other hand, if one knows the fuel system is functionally "new" this alleviates more than one potential headache. Remember that no modern EFI system would EVER continue to function with the problems on top of problems your system currently has, and, once made new (and kept to a minimum maintenance standard; i.e., have a drain plug installed in the tank; drain annually; use gasoline preservatives during periods of inactivity [best is a couple gallons of VP Racing Fuel ]), will remain that way another quarter-century plus.
Question from Tristan (1967):
I spent the day cleaning out the gas tank on my '67 Imperial today. This is the second time this summer, and this time I did it properly. It seemed to be infested with some kind of fungi or plants that were growing in the fuel, and on the inside of the tank. This car has not been driven on the road since 1984, so they had a lot of time to grow. Anyway, I washed the tank out with water, and filled it up with small rocks, and shook it for a while which dislodged a lot of crap, but not all of it, so I took the rocks out, and washed it out, and dumped some hydrochloric acid in it. This made a lot of smoke, and started eating the crud, so I put some more gravel in it, and shook some more, and then just left it to eat away while I went to borrow a pressure washer. When I got back, I dumped out the acid, and rocks, and pressure washed the inside for about 90 minutes which removed pretty near all of the crud that was left. Then I dumped a bunch of laundry soap inside, and blew that around with the pressure washer, flushed it out, and filled it up with chlorine bleach. I let that sit for a while, and then dumped it out, and pressure washed the inside again. Then I dried it out, and dumped some alcohol inside, and set it on fire. When that finished burning, I welded over a couple of small rust holes I found in the top. Now, I'm tired, dirty, and my hands are sore, and I hope whatever was living in my gas tank is dead, and won't clog up my AFB again which it did last week.
Anyone have any ideas what was living in my tank that made such a mess?
Replies:
From Jay:
Geeze Tristan, what an ordeal! You actually set your tank on fire? I'm glad you are okay. Flames and a gas tank are a combination that I hope to never have to deal with!
I don't know what was growing in your tank, but don't report it to the EPA or the U.S. Dept of Fish & Game. They might declare your tank a toxic hazard and charge you millions to "dispose" of it. Or worse yet, discover an endangered species and "protect" your Imperial under federal law, which sounds pretty good until they tell you you can't use it or touch it for fear of disturbing a natural habitat!
he bad news it if you don't seal the metal surfaces inside the tank, you will be cleaning it out again - it's just a matter of time. I have used POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer on ("in" really) our '62's fuel tank with good results.
They sell a kit for around $50 US that includes a special cleaner/prep and a quart of sealer. This stuff will permanently seal your tank from alien invaders without eating away the metal. After pouring in the sealer, sloshing it every-which-way-to-Sunday, and draining the excess, make sure you prop the tank up to drain every last bit of the excess. What doesn't get drained will be equal to lost tank capacity. If you use this stuff, you should never have contamination problems or leaks caused by rust or anything "growing" on the inner surfaces.
The fuel in my tank now comes out the same color as it was when it went in (at least until someone wants to do something nasty like adding something to the tank that belongs in a "B" movie!)
From Jim:
And your local radiator shop can also do the job, thereby saving you the mess. My local shop charges 50-60 bucks and the stuff id thick enough that it also seals any pinholes that may be thinking of opening up...
From Kerry:
And make sure you poke a coat hanger or something through the fuel outlet and vents. THe stuff they use will also seal them closed.
From Jim:
The suggestion to unplug the fuel line at the tank after sealing is a valid thought. (See post below) I used a coat hanger for this in a 53 Town Limo, with success. When attempting the operation on a 55 Windsor wagon I ended up with the coat hanger remaining in the line. Undaunted, I fabricated a line from the tank drain, which worked fine until I backed over a parking space concrete stop (?), & broke the fitting on the tank. The Fire Dept. cleaned up the mess, the damage was repaired & I drove off as if I had good sense. ( A doubtful evaluation!)
Despite my embarrassment, the moral of this tale of woe is, "Use something other than a coat hanger to unplug the line." Perhaps "Piano Wire" ?
Re: Sealing tanks. A friend recently had his tank cleaned & sealed. It was discovered, the in tank filter had also been sealed. The remedy was cutting a hole in the tank top, busting the filter out & welding the tank back up.
An interesting hobby we have & we learn from our mistrakes.
Question from Tim (1967):
A while back, I decided my "new" 67 Crown was finally healthy enough to travel more than a mile or two without being a menace to itself and society. So for the first time, I put more than just a few gallons of gas into its cavernous tank. Then I got called out of town for a week. When I came back, my garage reeked of gasoline, and there were two foul puddle-piles of nastiness on the floor under the gas tank. This stuff smells strongly of gas, but it's jet black, with some sort of light colored crappo caked up on top. This car was not maintained very well by its previous owners. I think they must have put it in storage without draining the tank to prevent gas-gum, and furthermore the tank seems to gotten some holes in it over the years, from rust or whatever. OK, I'll gladly have the tank replaced (if I can find another one), but can someone tell me whether these symptoms suggest a more sinister problem? Anyone know where I might get a suitable gas tank? I'm not capable of evaluating or removing one from a junkyard car, but I'd pay someone to do so for me if necessary. I'm in the Dallas area, but I'm willing to mail-order. And am I likely to need any other parts besides the tank itself? Thanks for any help or hints!
Replies:
From Glen:
I had the leaky tank on my Dodge done with plastic in/out so it will last forever at a place that just does tank revision. There must be somewhere around Dallas/Fort Worth that does the same thing, way better than getting a used tank and expecting the same problem again eventually.
From Jeff:
I would recommend you try and have your gas tank removed and resealed by a radiator shop or with the kit you get from Eastwood. I have done both with good results. The tank is held on with 2 bolts for the straps and one hose clamp and the grounding strap and the electrical connector. So it is not very hard to remove except the 2 bolts can put up quite a fight if they are old and rusty. Anyway I am sure your tank can be sealed for $100 or so which would be better for you then to get a used tank that may develop the same problem in a few months.
From Hugh:
Someone else has suggested it is the gas sending unit and I strongly suspect he is correct. But, even if he is, you might want to consider get your gas tank cleaned. Any good radiator shop probably provides the service, and it isn't very expensive. Until, or even instead, of replacing the tank they can put into it a polyurethane bladder that will keep the originality of your car and be a lot less troublesome than a rusting metal one. It does affect capacity, though, and probably the gauge as a result. As a temporary measure goes its quite acceptable. I have had the bladders put on several very old cars, such as a 29 REO, where the tank is extremely visible right behind the back bumper. Nobody could tell its in there and the car runs great. No more rust and sediment.
From Bill:
I don't know what your problem is but a suggestion if you have to start calling around for a tank. ask for either a 67 or 68 tank, they should be the same. It is possible that a tank from other large Chrysler products would fit, such as a New Yorker, 300, etc.
From Stephen:
I had the same problem on my '67. Turns out the gas was leaking from the fuel sending unit assy. at the front of the tank. The gas was dripping down the front, dissolving the black undercoating on the tank, and dripping on the floor. A new collar and gasket (Year One - under $20) solved the problem.
Question from Mark (1968):
How does an entire gas tank "not work?" Could this be symptomatic of a larger problem? What could go wrong with a gas tank (other than a leak, or blowing up when hit from the rear)? Has anyone had any experience with Imperials that have had their tanks replaced?
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From Leslie:
I have a 67 and my gas tank didn't work because I stored car for 4 years with gas in it... Wound up having to pull tank, have it boiled out to get all the crud out of it.. So unless the tank was leaking, my guess is that this replacement is symptomatic of another problem.. Like the car sat forever. FYI I wound up rebuilding a carburetor, replacing some fuel lines etc.. Because a friend tried to start my car after 4 years with that original tank of gas...What a mess.
From Dan:
Sounds like it could have gotten clogged up w/ old gas or something. Definitely need to check out the fuel pump, gas lines, and carb also. Running a car on bad gas can also cause other kinds of problems as well.
Question from Dave (1973):
Has anyone removed gas tanks from their Imperials? I�m contemplating doing so in �The Sleeping Giant� that I have but want to know ahead of time what I�m up against. I�m not doing so out of any particular necessity just want to clean out the inside, since I imagine it�s full of sentiment. Beyond making sure the tank is near empty, are there any other tips out there?
Replies:
From Rich:
I removed the gas tank from my '73 Imperial, and it's no big deal. The tank does have four vent/pollution hoses in the front (which should be replaced), and the typical tank straps. You should be able to get the tank out within an hour. Make sure most are all of the fuel is removed.
From Elijah:
While you have the tank out, you should replace ALL the rubber hose that you'll find back there, including the seven or eight pieces for the "Vapor Saver" system (when you get under there, you'll immediately see what I mean).
Also, be careful when you lower the tank that you don't damage the carboard-like insulator that lives on top of it. And while you have the tank off the car, it's a good time to inspect the underside of the trunk for rust, and repair as needed.
Otherwise, it's a pretty simple and straightforward repair.
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