Imperial Homepage -> Repair -> Air Conditioning -> Heater Control Valve
Question from Thomas (1961):
The heater control valve is leaking on my 1961 Imperial LeBaron. Does anyone know an interchangeable part?
Replies:
From Joe:
I used to have several hundred heater valves some years ago and seem to remember that 60 to 66 was the same, not sure, just a fading memory. What you can do in the mean time is bypass the heater valve and run the hoses straight from the heater box to the engine. Simple procedure till you get a valve if you are really cold. You could also add a hand valve to stop the flow if you are really too hot till you get a valve.
From Jay:
I used a HCV from a '63 Chrysler to replace the leaky one on our '62 Imperial. The cable control connects properly and it mounts properly into the hole in the firewall. The main differences were the "pipes" on the '63 Chrysler HCV are a little bit shorter than the Imperial's original. This causes the valve body to be closer to the firewall (inside the passenger compartment) but the cable control connects and works just fine. The other main difference is the Chrysler HCV does not have the thermostatic sensor "bulb" that the Imperial HVC has. The manufacturer is different as well, but the stamp on the Chrysler HCV is a symbol/logo so I can't tell who's built it.
If you can't locate the correct HCV (Ranco H-16 on the '62s, don't know for '61) you might/should be able to use one from a '63 Chrysler. So far it is working just fine for me! Of course my A/C isn't working, and I can't tell what the function of the sensor "bulb" is. I may need that sensor eventually to get it all working properly, but at least for now I have heat!
From Frank:
Classic Auto Air Manufacturing Co. rebuilt mine. Last phone # I have is (813) 251-2356
From John:
60-66 all use the same valve. Only difference is there is one style for A/C equipped cars & another for non-A/C cars.
Question from Tom (1962):
Does anyone know where I can get a '62 Crown, cable operated, Heater Control Valve repaired or replaced. I live in South Florida, don't need the heat but I don't want the leak.
Replies:
From Larry:
Jim Tucker in southern California supplied one for my '67. The aren't cheap but the service was very good.
From Jim:
The heater valve in my �63 Crown was leaking and I sent it off to Old Air Products in Fort Worth, Texas for rebuild. They have experience with these old valves and I was very pleased with the end product and the speed they serviced it. It cost me $93.22 with COD return shipping. They can be reached at (817) 531-2665 or www.oldairproducts.com.
From Joe:
Here is Jim Tucker's phone and emails: 760 749 3488, email- jthcv@juno.com
Jim and I have been around heater valves since my first involvement back in 1986. I had bought 700 heater valves and the books for their application at that time. Jim was already in the valves before I met him. He later bought many of my NOS valves. I had every valve known to man from the 30's thru the early 70's. All makes, no matter what American car you had.
The Everco or Everhot valves apparently are not repairable and the Ranco and Harrison vales are rebuildible. I had all these and maybe more. Anyway, by now, an NOS valve still should be rebuilt as the rubber might be cracked or stuck in the position it was last in a few decades ago. Jim has rebuilt valves for us in the past. I know he has many valves and maybe a turn around situation and your valve being rebuildible is a matter that determines if it is any good, depending on the care it received in the past. Tell Jim I sent you and I gave you the info, but I get no credit for my purchases as he needs to make a living also, or he will be doing something else. I know there are others repairing valves and it is just a matter of who you want doing them.
Question from Jay (1962):
I'm going to swap out my leaky Heater Control Valve with another. Are there any special tips, tricks or gotchas that I should know about?
I understand that I need to remove the glove box liner in order to reach the valve from under the dash. I can't seem to find the procedure in the '62 FSM. Is this fairly easy? How do I go about it?
The radiator repair shop tested the heater core with 30 psi and it passed with flying colors. (no leaks) the only other possible cause for the leak under the dash would be the Heater Control Valve, right?
Memory Lane in San Fernando, CA had a surprising number of Imperials, both complete cars for sale as well as parts cars. The HCV were already harvested from all the '60 to '66 Imperials, but I found a '63 Chrysler that appeared to have the same HCV that many have passed up. It's cable controlled and appears to be a unit that fits the same hole and has the same fittings as the '62 Imperial. It had no signs of leakage, so I took a gamble and picked it up for $25.
The actual heater core is easy to remove and install being it can be done entirely from the engine compartment. The HCV is mounted so high up under the dash and the fact that there is a cable to contend with, not to mention I probably will be doing this all by "feel", makes me a little uneasy about taking this on. I think that there might be some clearance problems associated with removing it not to mention the limited space in which to work.
Am I making this into a bigger deal than I have to?
Reply from John:
Right. If there are no obvious holes in the valve body due to corrosion, the leak is due to a bad internal seal where the control shaft passes thru the valve body. I think the NAPA seal kit is (was?) #660-1000 but this comes up as a dead number when I searched the part on NAPA.
Question from Kerry (1966):
Some time back I seem to remember someone saying that there was a rebuild kit available for '65-'66 heater control valves? Or maybe I was on drugs or something. If this is true would you please repost the data about where I can get the kit.
Replies:
From Chris:
I don't know of any kits, but this place http://heatercontrolvalve.com/index.html rebuilds them.
From Matt:
I purchased a kit for my '66 about 2 years ago from a place called "Chuck's Trucks". It is a place in Conn. or Mass. or near there from what I remember. I sent a check for about $10 and got the kit. My 84 year old neighbor performed the operation and I am quite certain you could do the same. Someone on the list gave me the source.
Question from Mike (1967):
My '67 crown with AC had no heater control valve when I bought it. The dealership and any auto parts store can not give me a replacement, apparently these are no longer available. Any recommendations out there in on a good replacement?
Replies:
From Neal:
You might try Old Air Products in Fort Worth, TX. They just rebuild the heater control valve in my '59. It looks like new and was $90 with shipping, I think. Perhaps they have a stock of them, if you don't have one to send to rebuild. Their web site is www.oldairproducts.com
From Norm:
One alternative, if you do not mind the inconvenience of going under the hood every time, is to purchase a late model universal replacement valve. I did this with my 67 LeBaron and have found it satisfactory to use until I find a proper replacement and can repair the ATC fully.
I turn it to off, when I want AC and ON when I want heat.
Question from Mark (1974):
Does anyone have a source for a heater control valve for a '74 Imperial with ATC?
Reply from Elijah:
A quick check of the Advance Auto Parts web site turns up Factory Air #74663 for $24.69.
Check with your local auto parts stores. If they don't show it for a '74 Imperial, ask them to look for the same part for a '78 New Yorker Brougham.
I've recently found that the local stores will tell me an item is NLA, but I can still order it through the web site. Might be an option!
Chances are also pretty good that a used one would still be OK. And since the same valve was used on ALL Chryslers from '74-'78 with ATC, they should be plentiful.
Another possible source is Classic Auto Air Manufacturing in Tampa, FL -- 813-251-2356.
This page last updated June 16, 2004. Send us your feedback, and come join the Imperial Mailing List - Online Car Club
